Some people pursue enlightenment by sitting quietly and probing their inner consciousness; I make plane reservations. ~ Madeleine Albright

Friday, June 21, 2013

Following the Band of Brothers (Part 3 of 3)

After the two cemeteries, we headed about an hour away to see the site of the Malmedy Massacre. Neither of us knew anything about this massacre (or the other executions that happened) until we started researching for this trip. It is, yet again, another example of the atrocities of war that often have nothing to do with the heat of battle. These kinds of things, whether against POWs or civilians, happen at the periphery, and to me they are even more tragic than the deaths that occur during the battles themselves. These kind of deaths are purposeless, and they are about humans allowing their baser natures to take control; it's such a complete disregard for human life.

In Malmedy, there's a small memorial for the massacre victims, a shallow chapel, and a wall of names. I've used a few of the memorial pics interspersed with the overview of the massacre below. All of the info is quoted directly from the following website: http://www.historylearningsite.co.uk/malmedy_massacre.htm.

The Malmedy Massacre

"The Malmédy Massacre occurred on December 17th 1944. The Malmédy Massacre took place during the Battle of the Bulge and was one of the worst atrocities committed against prisoners of war in the West European sector during World War Two.

On December 17th, men from Battery B of the 285th Field Artillery Observation Battalion were ordered to move from Schevenhutte, near Aachen, to St Vith in the Ardennes. Their route took them near to the town of Malmédy. On their journey, [they were] advised to take a different route to St Vith. However, the officers in charge of the battery decided that they had their orders and, ignoring Pergrin's advice, continued along their designated route.

This journey took them to what the locals called the 'Baugnez Crossroads' - two miles south-east of Malmédy. In fact, there were five roads there and to the Americans it was known as 'Five Points'.

About half-a-mile from the 'Baugnez Crossroads', the first vehicles in the convoy were fired on by two tanks from the 1st SS Panzer Division led by Joachim Peiper. This unit was one of just two units in the whole Nazi military allowed to use Hitler's name in its title - the 1st SS Panzer Division Leibstandarte Adolf Hitler. This unit had a fearsome reputation and Peiper was known as a man who would let nothing stand in his way of success - including the taking of prisoners. In the Russian campaign, Peiper's unit was known as the 'Blowtorch Brigade' for its violence towards civilians.

On this day in particular, it is said that Peiper was in a particularly foul mood as his advance had not been as successful or as swift as he had hoped. Though the 1st SS Division had suffered few casualties in terms of manpower, it had lost tanks and half-tracks in its advance as the US 99th Infantry Division had put up a far stronger resistance than Peiper had bargained for. The two tanks that fired on B Battery were under the command of SS Lieutenant Werner Sternebeck. He had lost five of his seven tanks in the advance. Peiper, it seems, was furious at yet more delays to his advance.



 

Clearly outgunned by the Germans, the men from B Battery surrendered after Sternebeck's attack. Peiper himself went to the Baugnez Crossroads and brusquely ordered Sternebeck to move on. The 113 American prisoners-of-war who had survived the attack were assembled in a field near the crossroads - this figure included eight Americans who had already been captured by Peiper. A young Belgium boy witnessed what happened next.





At about 2:15 PM, soldiers from the 1st SS Panzer Division opened fire on the 113 men who were in the field. The firing stopped at about 2:30. Soldiers from Peiper's unit went around the field and shot at close range anyone who seemed to be alive - or clubbed them to death as later autopsies showed. Incredibly, some prisoners did get away after feigning death. It was these men who first alerted the Americans that something had gone on at the crossroads.








Because of the nature of the Battle of the Bulge, no one side could claim the land that the dead men lay in. It was only from January 14th, 1945, on that the Americans could lay claim to the area around the crossroads and claim the bodies. 71 snow-covered bodies were recovered. The freezing weather had done a lot to preserve the bodies and that made the autopsies easier, especially as some had been covered in snow.






On December 17th, 21 survivors of the massacre made statements to the American authorities in Malmédy. Their accounts were remarkably similar despite the fact that they had had little time to discuss their experiences.








 

When the massacre took place, Peiper had left the area around Five Points and had moved on. He was not at the scene when the shooting started. However, on December 12th, it is said that Hitler had issued an order which stated that no prisoners were to be taken and that a "wave of terror" was to descend on the Allies who stood in the way of the offensive.However, in the trial at Dachau no written evidence was produced to substantiate this and, as evidence, the court ignored it. Also Peiper's men had taken prisoners in their advance prior to the Malmédy incident. So what happened?



 

The sheer number of prisoners almost certainly sealed the fate of the Americans. Over 100 prisoners could not be left where they were - in the field. But there was no spare capacity for the Germans to guard them as Peiper had ordered the SS units under his command to speed up their advance. They could not be sent marching back towards the German lines as Peiper only had control of one main road and his unit was using it. Any men marching in the opposite direction could easily clog up the road. Peiper's other worry was that he might be attacked by American units known to be in the area.









 

Two theories have been put forward to explain what happened.

The men were deliberately murdered in cold blood. Certainly, the 1st SS Panzer Division had been responsible for atrocities in Russia and they had already shot captured Americans in their advance in the Ardennes Offensive - and more were shot after Malmédy. It is possible that Major Werner Poetschke, who commanded the 1st SS Panzer Battalion, gave the order - but no evidence has proved this, just rumour.





 

Another theory put forward is that some Americans tried to escape and were fired on by the Germans. Other Germans heard the firing, but were not aware that the targets were three Americans as opposed to all of the group. Either trigger-happy or simply battle-hardened, they opened fire on the group as a whole. In October 1945, an American soldier made a sworn testimony that he had escaped with two other men (who were killed) but he had survived and made it back to US lines. The law as it stood then would have allowed the Germans to shoot at escaping prisoners - but not at the whole group. It is possible that their escape precipitated the shooting of the other men.

In May 1946, Peiper had 70 of his men were put on trial. The charge stated

"That they willfully, deliberately and wrongfully permit, encourage, aid, abet and participate in the killing, shooting, ill treatment, abuse and torture of members of the armed forces of the United States of America."

Forty-three of those accused were sentenced to death and the rest received prison sentences. The death sentences were commuted to prison sentences and all the men were out of prison by the end of 1956."

This is the field where the massacre happened. Imagine this looking like the black and white photo at the top of this posting.

This was a really hard place to visit because of how emotional it was, but I'm really glad we stopped here. These are the kind of things that need to be remembered.

 

Following the Band of Brothers (Part 2 of 3)

After Mardasson, we headed for Bois Jacques (Jack's Woods) to see the remains of Easy Company's foxholes. If you've seen the HBO mini-series, this is the episode where they're hunkering down in the woods during the dead of winter getting shelled to death by the Germans. (There are miles of these foxhole remains, but we only stopped at one place to see a few. It was raining pretty hard and we didn't want to be traipsing around forever in the wet woods.)

On the way to the forest, we stopped alongside the road in Bizory to see the Easy Company memorial put up by the town of Bastogne, Tom Hanks, HBO, and several other groups. It's pretty amazing that these men have their own special marker!

Here are the pics of the foxholes. I know in the pictures you can't tell very clearly how big or deep they are, but it was pretty amazing to be seeing these hollows where men huddled to keep warm and to hide from shell explosions.

 

 

The forest seemed a bit eerie, partly because the trees are so dense that it's quite shadowy, but also because of the rain and the knowledge of what happened here during WWII.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is a video clip from "Band of Brothers" that shows the shelling of the foxholes. Remember this battle occurred in the winter so everything was covered in snow in the movie.

 

And here's a video clip of a tourist walking through the foxhole remains in 2010. This video shows you foxholes that were deeper in the forest than where we went, but everything looks very similar to what we saw.

Seeing these foxholes was really an experience, and I'm so glad the weather cooperated so we could find them. (It was raining, but there weren't lightning storms like we had last night.)

Next up was the German Cemetery at Recogne. This cemetery has over 5,000 soldiers buried here, and the placque said it was the second largest German cemetery in Belgium. There is a beautiful stone wall around it and the entry gate leads directly to a reddish brown chapel that holds an altar, names of the dead, etc.

 

 

 

As I've said before, the German cemeteries seem very dark because of the dark gray stones they use as markers. This one was also dark, but instead of having a few of the short stone crosses scattered in between thousands of flat markers, ALL the graves had the dark stone crosses. It was quite a sight to look across this big, green space and see these black, squat stone crosses everywhere - as far as you could see.

 

 

 

 

More unknown soldiers, like we've seen at all the cemeteries.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Across the road from this German cemetery was a marker for the location of a temporary American cemetery from WWII.

 

 

 

 

 

The following picture is of a poem that's located underneath the sketch (above). It's very thought provoking. It reminds us all that we have to learn from the past; in order to honor the memory of those who died for us, we have to shape a better future for the world. I absolutely love it! I'm going to use it in my history class next year!

And now on to Part 3 . . .

 

Following the Band of Brothers (Part 1 of 3)

Today was our first full day in Bastogne, and it was a rainy, amazing, and emotional day. We saw so many beautiful and moving memorials to American troops fighting in the Battle of the Bulge (Dec. 1944-Jan. 1945), and several were specific to the 101st Airborne, which Easy Company was a part of. (The picture to the left is one of these. It's located outside the Mardasson memorial which I describe below.)

On the way up to the Mardasson Memorial, we passed this "Liberty Road Marker." I can't remember if I've mentioned these before, but these white markers are located all over the route that the Americans took from Normandy all the way through to Bastogne, Belgium as they liberated the French and Belgian towns. They mark the victorious route of the Allied forces. The first one (kilometer #1) is in Sainte-Mere-Eglise and the very last one is #1147 here in Bastogne. (There were several routes the Allies followed, but the route the markers follow is that of Patton's 3rd Army.) The idea for these originated right at the end of the war and they began to be installed in 1947.

 

 

The first place we stopped was the huge and awe-inducing Mardasson Memorial. It was built in 1950 by the people of Belgium in honor of the American troops who liberated them from the tyranny of the Nazis. (The pic to the left is from the internet. I wanted you to be able to see an aerial view of it.) The memorial is a huge five-pointed star that includes the names of all 50 states, as well as the principal military units that took part in the battle.

 

Inside the star are 10 panels which tell the story of the battle in eloquent detail. I will space out these pictures of the text in this posting so you can read the story exactly as it's told in this powerful memorial. (I've said this before, but my puny pictures just do not do justice to the magnificence of this structure.)

 

 

It's absolutely incredible to walk through the trees and see this gigantic stone structure rise up in front of you. It's so beautiful and shows such honor to our country. We both choked up as soon as we started walking through and reading all the inscriptions.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That is the whole story as it's told on the stone pillars inside the memorial. I think it's beautiful and eloquent and far better than anything I could've written for you.

On to our next stop in Part 2 . . .